Read Lyn’s article

“A Collagen Boosting Alternative:
Dermal Micro Needling”

in February’s Les Nouvelles Esthetiques & Spa magazine.

“Remember that smooth, dewy glow your skin had during your childhood? Young skin looks tight and toned because of active collagen production in the dermis, which slows steadily as we age, causing skin to loosen and fine lines and wrinkles to appear. New technology and products come out every day, promising the secrets to the fountain of youth, so it becomes difficult to choose the most effective treatment plan to achieve your specified results. Of course, it is vital to do your research and know what each treatment does in order to make an educated decision on the right products and procedures when treating age related skin conditions, especially collagen compromised skin.”

Read the article on Les Nouvelles Esthetiques & Spa website,

or in their digital magazine here.

Most clients spend numerous hours and plenty of money on treating their face, their nails and their hair each month. But somehow in the time, effort, and dollars most of us spend on maintaining our look, we neglect our body skin (even though it takes up vastly more surface area than our face!). Our bodies don’t feel the love and therefore become victim to a vast number of evils including genetics, hormones, sun damage, aging, and that awful “C” word. Cellulite. Here are a few tips to address those body issues and start feeling good in your skin.

Dry Patches

One of the most common skin problems makes your skin fell rough, dull and flaky. Dry skin occurs mainly in the arms and legs, and seems

Enhancing Glycolic Body Wash

worse in the winter months when humidity is low. One way dry skin occurs is if the protective oils and the water in the skin is allowed to escape.

• At home. Remember when bathing that hot water can often worsen dry skin by removing the protective skin oils. But, applying a moisturizer following a bath or shower allows water to be trapped and sealed in the stratum corneum making your skin softer and smoother (and helps protect from future dry skin).
• Lather up with Glycolic Body Wash & Lotion. The intensive body wash formulated with Glycolic Acid and Shea Butter exfoliates, softens rough dry skin while ensuring the maximum penetration of the Glycolic Body Lotion to be applied after the shower. The Glycolic Body Lotion formulated with Glycolic Acid and Apricot Kernel Oil ( increase cellular hydration and moisture retention) will not only restore skin elasticity but eliminate dead skin cell build up and hydrate.
• Pamper Yourself. Try the Healing Moor Mud Wrap, an alternative therapy used for centuries. This luxurious treatment will not only leave you revived and relaxed, but will increase circulation, detoxify, hydrate and heal the skin.

Cellulite

If you’re dealing with cellulite, you’re not alone. Approximately 85 percent of women are dealing with it right along with you. Estrogen promotes fat storage, and because fat is organized into chambers that are separated by fibrous connective tissue, when the fat swells you get that unfortunate dimpled appearance (cute in a baby, not so cute on a grown woman!)

•  Try Endermologie®. This non-invasive treatment is an FDA approved therapy to reduce the appearance of cellulite (and feels like a deep tissue massage!) for a fraction of the price of going under the knife. Mechanical stimulation on the skin by treatment head provoke a physiological change deep down in the cells activating collagen and elastin production and lipolysis.
• Use CelluliteRx™. Most cellulite products don’t work because they sit on the surface of the skin, but never make it down to the deeper layers of the skin where cellulite begins. CelluliteRx™is formulated with QuSome™ that drives the active ingredients into the skin to battle cellulite. The treatment kit includes the LipoSmooth Body Polish, the LipoTherm Contour Cream, and Lipolift Firming Cream to treat all those areas that fall prey to cellulite (upper arms, stomach, butt and thighs).
•  Bye-Bye Salt. Stay away from things that make you retain water, like consuming a lot of salt. And be sure to drink your recommended daily intake of water. When fluid builds up the fat between the fibrous bands bulge. Keep yourself on a healthy work out regime that helps you to build muscle. Because muscle helps improve the blood flow, your fluid retention will be reduced minimizing that infamous cottage-cheese look.

Pigmented Spots

Unfortunately in this day and age, being tan is considered more attractive. A lot of people remember to put sunscreen on their faces or wear a protective hat, but neglect to apply sunscreen to protect their body.

• Cover Up. It’s as simple as that. To prevent further sun damage and to stop your already discolored areas from looking worse, wear your SPF now! Wear hats and cover- ups if you’re at the beach, and be sure to reapply sunscreen according to the guidelines so you’re constantly covered.
• Fading with Chromabright. In the past, people were using a controversial hydroquinone to fade dark brown discoloration. But the revolutionary hydroquinone-free serum is formulated with Chromabright (proven to have higher melanogensis than Arbutin & Kojic Acid) and Glycolic Acid to fade discoloration and renew the skin’s surface. This serum is usually used on the face, but can be used to spot treat over the body.
• Treat with IPL. High concentrations of melanin are typically caused by an excess of pigment commonly due to sun exposure, aging or congenital factors. Lumenis Quantum IPL effectively treats sun spots by zapping the discolored cells, allowing them to absorb the heat, temporarily darken, then scab and flake off.

Changing Skin, Changing Lives,

Lyn Ross

DermaFrac™: This new treatment in skin rejuvenation is a micro-needling procedure that can treat a variety of skin issues including aging, hyperpigmentation, uneven skin texture, acne scars, and stretch marks. You might be wondering what all these conditions have in common. Well, collagen production in the skin is lacking and needs to be stimulated in order to correct these skin concerns. Here’s how it works: microscopic stainless steel needles on a roller glide across the skin’s surface and create tiny punctures. By using the micro-needle roller, the skin will be stimulated in the dermis causing it to regenerate lost collagen. Additionally, DermaFrac™ infuses topical treatment serums which work to accelerate desired results

Retinoids: A topical anti-aging ingredient found in Vitamin A, should be used at night and increases the rate that the body sheds the dead skin cells that have built up. Retinoids will also decrease the depth of fine lines and wrinkles by stimulating collagen production.  Another great benefit of Retinoids is that it can normalize the cells that have been damaged by those powerful UV rays. It is recommended to use a product containing these Retinoids a few times a week, because it can cause irritation with overuse. Also, use these products only at night because they can chemically break down when exposed to the sun.

IPL: Almost everyone has a brown or red pigmented lesion of some type. These areas of the skin contain especially high concentrations of melanin and are typically caused by an excess of pigment commonly due to sun exposure, aging or congenital factors. Lumenis Quantum IPL effectively treats rosacea, birthmarks, veins, sun spots and acne blemishes with its time-proven laser and Intense Pulsed Light solutions for cosmetic flaws. After completing the recommended treatment course the results for prominent veins and pigment are often permanent. The more subtle rejuvenating results are very long lasting, however, anyone wishing to obtain the optimum result longer term may wish to have 4 IPL Photo Facial treatments each year.

Apple Stem Cells: The first plant stem cell active ingredient on the market whose effect has been evaluated on human skin stem cells, and the results have shown that when the apple stem cells are applied to “old” epidermal stem cells, they support skin rejuvenation.

Glycolic Acid: An Alpha Hydroxy Acid (AHA) derived from sugarcane increases desquamation to refine the skin’s surface.

Botox: An injectable form of botulinum toxin that removes wrinkle visibility.

Matrixyl 3000™: A unique wrinkle-relaxing and anti-aging peptide that helps visibly reduce the appearance of expression lines and wrinkles while boosting natural collagen production.

Lactic Acid: This alternative to glycolic acid derived from sour milk increases cellular desquamation to refine and re-texturize the skin.

TCA : An acetic acid, commonly found in fermented apple cider, wine, grain, malt, rice, or potato mashes. TCA, or Trichloroacetic acid, is used to treat a wide range of patients for age related skin conditions like pigment disorders, photo aged skin, fine lines, light to deep wrinkles, acne scarring and uneven skin texture. TCA peels can range from superficial exfoliation to deep peeling depending on the concentration used and the number of layers applied.

Discuss your skin issues and concerns with an esthetician familiar with your skin to decide what ingredients and treatments are most suited to your skin type (that will also give you results!). But knowing what ingredients and treatments are available is the first step to younger looking skin!

Changing Skin, Changing Lives,

Lyn Ross

If these issues sound all too familiar, then the Renewing Eye Complex is an eye cream packed with active ingredients to work on wrinkle-relaxing. Matrixyl 3000 ™, one of the key ingredients in the Renewing Eye Complex, is a powerhouse ingredient derived from fatty acid synthesis, collagen and fibronectan that works to reduce wrinkle density and volume. Matrixyl 3000™ is an anti-aging peptide that will visibly reduce the appearance of those expression lines and wrinkles while boosting your own natural collagen production around your eye area. While the Matrixyl 3000™ works to boost your own natural collagen, this eye cream is also made with Hesperidin, an antioxidant that helps form healthy connective tissue and prevent the breakdown of collagen!

http://www.idermedstore.com/product/Renewing/renewing_eye_complex.html

Institut' DERMed Renewing Eye Complex

How to Use: When you first begin using this eye cream, try alternating with another eye cream to adjust the intensity of the treatment. Try starting with a couple of times a week, and add more days once your skin adjusts. As the last step of your night time skin regime, dab a small amount around the entire eye area, pat and press gently to allow the cream to absorb. You could even alternate nights with another eye cream to customize your skin treatment.

Are you noticing those fine lines and wrinkles under your eyes, but you’re also experiencing dark circles? If you’re getting plenty of sleep but you just can’t seem to get rid of the dark color under the eyes, then you should consider an eye cream to brighten.

The Brightening Eye Cream by Institut’ DERMed is formulated with a unique blend of botanical extracts and Lactic Acid to not only lighten dark circles but to also smooth out the eye contour. A key ingredient in this eye cream is Vitamin K. The Vitamin K decreases the number of cellular elements visible in connective skin tissue so by topically applying it, it will heal discoloration associated with those dark under eye circles that make you look tired, worn-out and bruised. This eye cream also has an ingredient called L-Arbutin. The L-Arbutin is a natural form of hydroquinone that comes from Bearberry extract, which inhibits the production of melanin, reducing the under eye darkness.

Institut' DERMed Brightening Eye Cream

http://www.idermedstore.com/product/Brightening/brightening_eye_cream.html

How to Use: Every morning and/or night dab a small amount around the entire eye area and then pat and press gently to allow the cream to absorb. You might want to alternate this eye cream with another for additional hydration or to adjust the intensity of the treatment.

Are you aging and can now see very visible lines and wrinkles? Are you looking to redefine your eye area, repair deep wrinkles and prevent further aging around the eye area?

If this sounds like you, then the Enhancing Eye Serum from Institut’ DERMed is for you. The most exciting ingredient in the eye serum is the Spin Trap (Phenyl Butyl Nitrone). Nitrones trap free radicals, rehabilitate them into useful oxygen and release them back into the system to support bodily functions and tissue repair. This is really a fabulous ingredient especially when combined with corn silk (another key ingredient), which is what makes the product like “liquid gold”. Lastly, with Rice Bran Oil included in this eye serum, (high levels of antioxidants to defend against UV rays), it helps to prevent skin aging.

http://www.idermedstore.com/product/Enhancing/enhancing_eye_serum.html

How to use: This eye serum can be used every night (it has a shiny iridescent look once it is applied so you wouldn’t want to put it on in the morning). Dab a small amount around the entire eye area. Be sure not to rub the serum in but rather pat and press gently until it is absorbed. You can also consider blending the Enhancing Eye Serum with another eye cream to adjust and customize your skin treatment!

Institut' DERMed Enhancing Eye Serum

There is no shortage of eye creams and serums on the market promising results but make sure you’re paying close attention to the ingredients being used as you browse for products. Without active ingredients that produce results, you will be disappointed with the outcome! Also, even if you haven’t yet seen the signs of aging or fine lines around your eyes, you can still use an eye cream as a preventative to those aging results (saving your skin and money for the future). Luckily, here are three eye cream options with wonderful active ingredients to get the skin you want!

Changing Skin, Changing Lives,

Lyn Ross

Plastic surgery is painful, expensive, and takes weeks, sometimes even months, to heal.  What if the face could be contoured without the in depth process and hassle of going under the knife?  Microcurrent therapy is a facial contouring alternative to plastic surgery and can be performed by any licensed esthetician.

What is Microcurrent?

Low levels of electrical current, known as microcurrents, send impulses to the muscles in your face. Micocurrents are such a small amount of pulse that the sensory nerves are not stimulated and no pain is felt. Essentially, Microcurrent is a facial toning machine that “re-educates” the facial muscles and helps to restore them to their original shape. While Microcurrent firms and tones your face, it simultaneously improves your facial circulation which in turn stimulates the production of collagen. Because the collagen stimulation is improved, the tone, texture and appearance of fine lines are also improved.

During the Treatment

At Institut’ DERMed Mediclinical Spa a typical Microcurrent treatment will begin with small nods being attached to various locations on the face. Then, as you lay relaxed on a technician’s treatment bed, specific frequencies of microcurrents are sent to the tissues that have been targeted. Electrodes are then used by the technician to direct the currents throughout the face. Conduction is facilitated when the technician places warm and moist towels over the treatment areas. While words like “electrodes” and “conduction” make a treatment sound scary, microcurrents do not stimulate the sensory nerves, so there are no shocks or discomfort.

How Many Treatments Will You Need?

The results of Microcurrent are cumulative. That means the more treatments of facial toning you receive the more improvement you will begin to see. Just as the more you enter the gym and tone your muscles, the better the results, so too with Microcurrent. The more you enter a medical spa and tone your face, the better results you will see! However, unlike working out at the gym, Microcurrent gives instant gratification, with an immediate visible difference.  To get the most of the Microcurrent results however, most people require 7 to 12 treatments.

Micocurrent therapy is also a good treatment for any skin type, however, it should not be used on clients with pacemakers or those who are pregnant. Also, like with a lot of toning, body or massage treatments, drink plenty of water before and after the treatment!

Changing Skin, Changing Lives,

Lyn Ross

The Appeal, When to Use & the Best Options for You

Aging is inevitable, and so is the evidence of aging on the skin ( including wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, or age spots). Women and men alike are all searching for ways to keep themselves looking and feeling good, and hopefully not break the bank while doing it. Hence why facial peels have become an increasingly popular skin care treatment, they are relatively inexpensive and not nearly as invasive as other anti-aging treatments, like surgery or injections.

So here is a little Facial Peel 101 to help you decide which peel is best suited to you:

Enzyme Peels

Enzyme peels typically use active fruit or vegetable enzymes to eat (literally) the dead skin cells on the top layer of the skin. Typically enzyme peels work more like an exfoliant than a peel so they’re good for all skin types.  Enzymes are the most superficial (although if they are used wrong, left them on the skin too long, or if the actives are too high, they have the potential to burn your skin.) If you just want a softer look and an exfoliation, this is the route you should go, but if your concern is reducing fine lines, wrinkles, or sun damage you will want a stronger type of peel.

Acid Peels

Acids penetrate the skin to varying degrees depending on type of acid , concentration (percentage strength) and pH level (lower pH being more deeply penetrating). Some people refer to acids as chemical peels, however, they are not because acid peels are only light to medium penetration of the skin.  Glycolic acid have best penetration because it’s the smallest AHA (alpha-hydroxy acid), but lactic acid peels are also similarly effective. These acid peels will produce minor tingling during the procedure with a red flush of the skin, but has no downtime. An acid peel is a quick, effective treatment (popular due to its no-downtime) that will promote clear skin, cell growth, and a more even complexion.

Chemical Peels

Chemical peels have the deepest penetration, with Trichloroacetic acid (TCA) and Jessners being the most popular. The Jessners is a solution containing a combo of Resorcinol (a compound containing caustic soda and benzenedisulfonic acid), L-Lactic Acid and Salicylic Acid. The non-resorcinol version (for treating sensitive or ethnic skin) contains a combo of L-Lactic Acid, Salicylic Acid and Glycolic Acid. These peels are more effective because they reach a deeper level of the dermis than enzyme or acid peels. The skin will be flaky and red for a few days after treatment, but the end result will show diminished fine lines and wrinkles, hyperpigmentation, leaving a fresh and youthful face.

There is also a range of at home peels, while not as intense or as high a concentration as those performed by professionals, they help to exfoliate the skin and keep the skin looking fresh and youthful. However, they all work in a range to peel away the skin’s layers to remove the imperfections on the top layer of skin.

Winter is a great time to have any type of peel done, because the sun should be avoided after any peel treatment (but sunscreen should be worn all seasons, regardless of temperature!). So, if you’ve been thinking about trying a peel, this is the season!

Changing Skin, Changing Lives,

Lyn Ross

5 Mistakes Most Clients Make (And Don’t Even Realize)

1. Less is sometimes more

I see clients all the time who come in with irritated and sometimes broken out skin and they can’t figure out why the products they are using are not working. People buying numerous products for their skin condition, whether it’s acne, aging, rosacea or hyperpigmentation, and overloading their skin are likely to suffer from irritation. I recommend you bring all the products you are currently using in to your esthetician. The two of you can go over your regime together, and cut out unnecessary products, or remove products from the line-up that are not suited for your skin type. Also, just because you use the product more, does not mean you will see better results faster. Excellent products will have result producing ingredients, and over using them before your skin is adjusted can cause the skin to suffer.

2. Stay Committed

When you begin using a product, give it a chance to work. Just because you have not seen results from your new eye cream or serum after a week does not mean that it doesn’t work. Most products can take from a few weeks to a few months to see results, so be patient. Also, be sure that you are using your product consistently and not using them off and on. Skin care regimes are not always a “quick fix” but if you are patient and consistent you will see results.

3. Retinoids at Night

Just like other parts of your body repair during sleep, you skin does as well. Your skin works to repair the elastin fiber (the collagen and elastin networks break down as we age, causing fine lines and wrinkles)so it is beneficial to apply anti-aging ingredients at night. . Retinoids will decrease the depth of fine lines and wrinkles by stimulating collagen production. Retinoids, however, chemically break down when exposed to the sun, so they should only be applied at night time. So pick up an eye cream or serum that is Retinoid free to put on in the morning, and save your Retinoids for before bed.

4. Don’t Over Exfoliate

Your skin has a delicate barrier, and while you want to exfoliate dead skin cell build up in order for the skin to look fresh and for products to penetrate better, you do not want to over exfoliate. I see clients who are using at home peeling products, exfoliating polishes along with exfoliating cleansers multiple times a week. Some clients also just do not realize that the products they are using are exfoliating their skin. Discuss your exfoliating schedule and the products your using with your esthetician to be sure you are not over indulging in the exfoliation area.

5. Serum’s First

Unfortunately, many of my clients are under the impression that their moisturizer is what will hydrate them the best, their cleanser will cure their skin condition, or their exfoliant will rid them of their hyperpigmentation. While cleansers, exfoliators and moisturizers are essential steps in a healthy skin regime, the serum is what does the real dirty work and helps change skin. If your suffering from dry skin, try an aging serum geared to hydrate. Hyperpigmentation? You need to use a serum with Chroma Bright or hydroquinone. Suffering with the red flares of rosacea? A licorice root serum will help diffuse your redness and reduce inflammation. So keep in mind, the other steps in your skin care regime are necessary and work to enhance the results of the serum.

Changing Skin, Changing Lives,

Lyn Ross

Aging signs and Effective Treatments

20s

If you’re in your twenties, you’re still enjoying a tight collagen and elastin network, wrinkle free skin, with minimal to no hyperpigmentation or discoloration. Wrinkles still seem like a faraway worry, only for “old” people. But, beware. Though you can’t see the effects of aging on your skin yet, how you take care of your skin at this stage effects its aging process. Luckily, there is little to no need for foundation or makeup (Even if you might feel like you can’t leave the house without it). But if you are using makeup, be sure it is a natural mineral makeup, to ensure chemicals aren’t blocking your pores and aging your skin.

You may not be seeing the effects of sun damage at this stage, except for a few freckles that can be considered cute, but sunscreen should be worn daily.  Moisturizer and serums containing alpha hydroxy acids and antioxidants should be added to the skin care regime. Monthly facials should occur once a month, if there are no skin concerns that need more attention, in order to have the pores cleared by a professional. Enzyme peels and mild acid peels are excellent treatments for this skin age, as it exfoliates and returns skin to its natural glow. This is the age group known for all-nighters, heavy drinking, and smoking. Good skin health requires sleep, drinking alcohol at a minimum, and absolutely no smoking.

30s

The thirties, unfortunately, wrinkles start arising, especially as skin moves. As you’re looking in the mirror those slight lines around your eyes appear, and you see those creases around your mouth become deeper. Your skin doesn’t seem to pop back into place the way it did when you were in your twenties. Foundation becomes a little more necessary during this stage but please remember to use mineral makeup only! A few more steps start to appear to the skin care line up. Serums containing alpha hydroxy acids should stay in the rotation but retinols in an eye cream and/or serum should be added to reduce the signs of aging. Also, melanin concerns begin to arise at this skin age, so it may become necessary to add melanin suppressing serums into your rotation. Anti-Oxidant Infusion facials are an excellent treatment choose for this skin age forward. It will leave the skin feeling hydrated, clean, and revived. Also, continue with enzyme and acid peels for a great exfoliation.

40s and Beyond…

Skin wrinkles unfortunately can become common place on the face neck and hands as we get progressively older. Also, the sun damage from summer days in the sun when you were young is now evident on the skin. Light chemical peels are a great treatment to rid the skin of that outer layer, fine lines and skin discolorations. This might also be the time to consider deeper treatments such as laser resurfacing and DermaFrac.

While these are some tips on what you can expect with aging, and how to use treatments and products to keep your skin as young and healthy as possible, we all age differently, deal with different skin concerns, and may need different treatment plans and products. Get regular skin consultations and review your product selections with an experienced esthetician to make sure your skin is on the right track to healthy and flawless.

Changing Skin, Changing Lives,

Lyn Ross

5 Tips to Avoid Acne

Let’s face it we’ve all suffered from breakouts at some point in our life. It’s embarrassing; it interferes with your life, and can even lower your self-esteem. Unfortunately, what causes these annoy skin issues is unclear and can vary from person to person,  but here are five easy tips everyone can keep in mind to battle the breakout….

1. First, use appropriate skin care ingredients that will control the oil production in the skin, for example a cleanser containing salicylic acid will be an effective oil controller.
2. People are prone to touching their face thousands of times a day. Not only does this spread germs, but this spreads bacteria to the face. So KEEP THOSE HANDS OFF YOUR FACE! Also, resist the urge to squeeze any pimples, this will only spread more bacteria and exacerbate the problem. If you need extractions, go to a professional who will avoid scarring and the spread of bacteria (and let’s face it they know what they’re doing, squeezing your own zits can make it worse).
3. If you find yourself breaking out along the hairline, consider changing the hair products, including shampoo, that are being used because chances are the ingredients in these products are aggravating the skin. If other areas of your body begin to break, consider changing your clothes detergent.
4. Go to a mediclinical spa for monthly facials to unclog pores and to treat the skin with manual exfoliation methods, including microdermabrasion and chemical peels. This will help acne subside and heal, and a mediclinical spa is relaxing but is also pursues treatment effectiveness and results (not just a fluff facial with no change in skin health).  Also, product choices can be examined by your esthetician and new ingredients can be added to the product regime, or products can be removed, in order to advance the results.
5. Stay away from any unnatural makeup. Mineral makeup should be the only type of makeup used on acne prone (or any skin type) to prevent pore congestion and possible irritation from unnatural ingredients. Some mineral makeups are even formulated to help calm the skin and reduce redness, a great benefit for those suffering with acne. Why not give Jane Iredale Mineral Makeup a try?

While some causes of acne are difficult to treat and heal, sometimes clearing up a breakout can be as simple as following these 5 basic breakout preventing rules. If your following all these rules, but still suffering you could have a bigger acne battle ahead, but with align yourself with a trustworthy esthetician, and you won’t be facing the fight alone.

Changing Skin, Changing Lives,
Lyn Ross

Check out Lyn’s article “Skin Care and the Hormonal Balance” in this month’s Dermascope Magazine.

Understanding hormones and their effect on the skin, from the teenage years to perimenopause and menopause, is challenging for many skin care specialists. Journeying through the roller coaster with many clients can be rough sailing. Understanding the prominent hormones in the body is essential in order to correctly diagnose, treat and prevent hormone related skin conditions. Estrogen and progesterone are the main partners in this delicate balancing act. Designed to work together as a team, when that balance leans more to one direction than the other, a whole host of problems occur.

Read the full article on Dermacope’s website here.

♦♦♦

Also featured in this month’s issue:

The Institut’ DERMed  Renewing Mask